An Autumn Escape to the Engadin
Golden forests, quiet villages and mountain walks. A few personal suggestions from Chesa Altrova.
Welcome to the Engadin!
October is one of my favourite times of the year here. The larch trees turn golden, the mountains begin to prepare for winter, and the trails become quieter. It's a season that invites you to slow down, take a closer look and discover the beauty of small, unexpected moments.
I've put together a few suggestions for your stay: gentle walks, traditional villages and places I particularly love at this time of year. But these are not itineraries to complete. They are invitations to spend time in a place, at your own pace.
After all, a walk isn't measured only in kilometres. You can spend an entire afternoon watching the light change, counting the carriages of a passing red train, following the clouds across the sky, breathing in the mountain air, stopping at every bench, talking to the wind or simply being silent with the forest.
So take as much time as you like. Sometimes, the shortest walk can become the most memorable part of a journey.
Saturday, 24 October
The Lake and St. Moritz
Your first encounter with the village
After arriving and settling into Chesa Altrova, I suggest starting with a walk around Lake St. Moritz, just a few steps from the apartment.
The complete walk takes about an hour, along an easy, mostly flat path. At this time of year, the mountains and golden larches are reflected in the water. When the wind settles, the lake can become almost like a mirror.
From there, you can walk up to the historic centre of St. Moritz Dorf, explore its streets and stop at Confiserie Hanselmann, a traditional pastry shop dating back to 1894.
It's a lovely place for a coffee, hot chocolate or a slice of Engadiner Nusstorte, the region's famous walnut cake.
Useful information
Walk around the lake: approximately 1 hour, easy.
Confiserie Hanselmann — Via Maistra 8, St. Moritz.
Swiss public transport timetables — for buses and trains.
Sunday, 25 October
A Golden Forest and an Engadin Village
Spinas, Val Bever and the sounds of autumn
Sunday is expected to be cloudier, although it may remain mostly dry during the day. I'd like to suggest one of my favourite autumn walks.
Take the train from St. Moritz to Spinas, a tiny railway stop tucked away in the beautiful Val Bever.
Just a short walk from the station, you'll find Gasthaus Spinas, a traditional mountain inn where you can enjoy lunch, try some regional dishes or simply stop for a homemade dessert and a warm drink. Vegetarian options are also available, although I recommend checking the menu.
Sunday, 25 October, is scheduled to be its last day of opening before the seasonal break, so it's a particularly nice opportunity to visit.
Afterwards, if you feel like walking, you can follow the trail through the forest towards Bever. The path takes you through larch and spruce trees, alongside the Beverin stream.
At this time of year, the larches are shedding their golden needles. When a gentle breeze passes through the trees, it can feel as though you're walking through a shower of tiny golden confetti.
Even a little rain can make the forest especially beautiful. The sound of raindrops falling onto branches, leaves and the forest floor creates its own quiet music. Sometimes the most memorable walks are not the sunniest ones.
Once you reach Bever, take some time to explore this lovely traditional village. Its Engadin houses, decorated façades, small windows and old fountains offer a glimpse of a different side of the valley.
From Bever, you can take the train back to St. Moritz.
If the weather isn't inviting, or you'd simply prefer a more relaxed day, you can take the train from Spinas to Bever instead of walking through the forest. After exploring the village, you can return to St. Moritz by train. There's no need to complete the walk to enjoy the beauty of the valley.
Useful information
Train timetables — SBB: search for St. Moritz → Spinas and Bever → St. Moritz.
Gasthaus Spinas — for opening hours, menus and reservations. Tel. +41 81 851 19 20.
Walk from Spinas to Bever: allow approximately 60–90 minutes, depending on your pace and the trail conditions.
Monday, 26 October
Towards the Morteratsch Glacier
A day among golden larches and magnificent mountains
Monday is expected to bring beautiful sunshine, and there's one place I would especially recommend: Val Morteratsch. It's one of the places in the Engadin that never ceases to amaze me.
You can easily reach it by train from St. Moritz, getting off at Morteratsch station. From there, a walking trail leads into the valley towards the glacier.
You'll walk among golden larch trees, surrounded by a magnificent Alpine landscape. Ahead of you are the Morteratsch Glacier, Piz Bernina, Piz Palü and the famous Biancograt, the beautiful white ridge leading towards the summit of Piz Bernina.
What I particularly love about this walk is how the landscape changes as you move through it. The mountains seem to come closer, the glacier gradually reveals itself, and new details appear in the rock faces and surrounding peaks.
You can walk as far as you wish and turn back whenever you like. The main trail is generally easy, although at this time of year it's important to check for snow or ice.
On your way back, I suggest stopping in Pontresina, another beautiful Engadin village, for lunch and a short stroll through its historic streets.
If you're travelling by car, you can drive directly from Morteratsch to the centre of Pontresina and park near BUN DI, a relaxed restaurant offering pizzas, salads, bowls and vegetarian-friendly dishes.
If you prefer travelling by train, please note that Pontresina railway station is located below the village centre. You can take a local bus from the station towards the centre rather than walking uphill.
Alternatively, you can return to St. Moritz and enjoy lunch closer to the apartment.
Useful information
Train timetables — SBB: St. Moritz → Morteratsch, then Morteratsch → Pontresina → St. Moritz.
Morteratsch Valley walk: you can choose the distance according to your preferences and the trail conditions.
BUN DI — Pontresina — menu and opening information.
Public transport: Pontresina railway station → Pontresina village centre
Tuesday, 27 October
One Last Encounter with the Lake
Little flames dancing above the water
Before leaving, if you're awake early enough, I have one final suggestion: take a short walk down to the shores of Lake St. Moritz.
At this time of year, especially on cold, still mornings, something quite magical can happen.
As the first rays of sunlight reach the lake, a delicate mist sometimes begins to rise from the water.
It isn't always a continuous blanket of fog. Sometimes it looks like hundreds of tiny flames made of vapour, dancing just above the surface, appearing and disappearing as the air moves.
It's a natural phenomenon that can't be predicted or guaranteed. But if you're lucky enough to see it, it might become one of your favourite memories of the Engadin.
And the best part is that the lake is only a few steps from Chesa Altrova.
A Few Practical Tips
Getting around
Although you've arrived by car, you can also make use of the public transport tickets provided with your stay, within their validity area. For these excursions, travelling by train is particularly enjoyable and allows you to admire the scenery along the way.
The nearest bus stop to the apartment is St. Moritz Bad, Kath. Kirche, just behind the building.
You can check all connections and departure times on the SBB website.
What to wear
October in the Engadin can be quite cold, especially in the mornings and in shaded valleys. I recommend warm layers, a waterproof jacket and comfortable walking shoes with good grip. You'll also find umbrellas available at Chesa Altrova.
Take your time
All these suggestions are flexible. You can enjoy the villages, forests and mountain scenery without taking long walks. Feel free to stop whenever you like, enjoy a coffee or simply take the next train back.
Where to eat
There are no exclusively vegetarian restaurants among these particular suggestions, but many local restaurants offer vegetarian alternatives.
As late October is a quieter period between the summer and winter seasons, some restaurants and mountain inns may be closed. I recommend checking opening hours and menus in advance, especially for dinner.
One small reminder
In Switzerland, daylight saving time ends during the night between Saturday, 24 October, and Sunday, 25 October. The clocks go back one hour. Your phone should adjust automatically.
More ideas
If you'd like to discover more places, local traditions, seasonal landscapes and little things worth noticing, you can explore my personal guide:
Altrova's Engadin — Discover the Valley
I hope you enjoy these few days in the Engadin and discover some of the small wonders that make this valley so special.
Warm wishes,
Giada
Staying in St. Moritz?
If you're looking for a quiet holiday apartment in the heart of the Upper Engadin, discover Chesa Altrova.